Papel picado at La Tolteca along with colorful murels.
Located at 12th street on Van Buren, La Tolteca is one of those places the natives always seem to bring up along with Comedor and Oaxaca. There's a reason for that kind of loyalty; the food is good and the establishment is timeless.
Painted ceiling tiles at La Tolteca
While there are those hipster establishments that try to replicate the authentic nature of La Tolteca, La Toleca itself simply is. The old building blends into the surrounding neighborhood and the interior exemplifies the basic nature of the menu and products sold there.
Chicharrones with rice, beans and tortillas.
An important thing to consider with La Tolteca, as with many Mexican restaurants in the U.S., is the food is not totally authentic Mexican. This is one of those areas where "foodies" go into frenzies ripping apart Mexican joints that use the dreaded yellow cheese. Well, here's my take as seen from a third generation halfer who holds on to her culture like a "foodie" to their Anthony Bourdain code of rules. When people come to a new country most of the ingredients to which they were accustomed are not available so substitution is required. It's only been in the past decades that more Mexican food items, and other Latino items, have found their way into grocery stores. There was a time when we made yearly treks to the Food City in South Phoenix to get our tamale and menudo makings during the holidays. Now, if we forget the ojas we can usually run to the nearest Frys. I have nothing against the Americanesque versions of these food items because it represents the strength of my culture to assimilate but never give up entirely on itself. Off the soap box and on to my review.
